Cornwall. Harbours, Pasties and Seagull Poop

Moving on from Looe after a big storm had made the air feel fresher, fresher, not cooler, we were still dripping with sweat as the three of us sought shade and the blessed air conditioning of the car while departing Looe CAMC Site.


The drive was uneventful. In fact, we even had to pull into a lay-by to kill some time so we didn’t arrive before the 1pm check-in.


On arrival at Merrose Farm CAMC site in St.Mawes, we encountered another first for us: entry by traffic light system. Traffic lights stand at the top of a very narrow lane, with a sign warning that a red light could hold you for two minutes. Once our green light appeared and we set off, it became immediately obvious why. You definitely wouldn’t want to meet another vehicle coming the other way. Fortunately, the lane is for site traffic only, so it’s not exactly the M6.


We set up slowly. There was no rush, we didn’t have to be anywhere. We chose a pitch with a lovely expanse of grass and bushes behind us.
What we couldn’t get, however, was a pitch directly beneath a blooming great tree. While we had a little shade outside, the caravan sat squarely in the full glare of the sun. Windows cranked open, roof vents wide, blowers on and a fan working overtime, we did our best to stop it becoming a mobile pizza oven. Thankfully, the forecast promised cooler temperatures over the next few days.


A ride on the tandem took us down to Porthcurnick Beach. It was all downhill, which, of course, could only mean one thing for the journey back… uphill. Gravity always wants paying back.


Down on the beach, the sea breeze instantly took the edge off the day’s heat. Cycling shoes and socks came off, and it felt wonderful to sink my feet into the damp sand. As I wandered towards the gently lapping sea, I was surprised by the water temperature. It was strangely inviting, a warm cool, if that makes any sense at all.
We meandered from one side of the cove to the other before plonking ourselves down to dry our feet. Time for one of my favourite pastimes, ocean watching. Oh, and people watching too. Sometimes the people are just as entertaining as the waves.


Another outing took us into Truro to stock up on supplies. A huge Tesco sits right on the edge of the city centre, so we happily parted with quite a few coins before parking up and wandering into town. We’d collect the shopping after exploring.


Truro is another place I visited as a child, and I imagine it made much the same impression on me then as it did now. Unless you visit the cathedral, which is absolutely magnificent, both inside and out, the city itself is much like many others. Shops, people and not a great deal else.

Perhaps we missed some hidden gems… perhaps we didn’t. What I do know is that the cathedral is well worth setting aside some time for.


Lunch was a traditional Cornish pasty, enjoyed on a conveniently vacant bench.


Unfortunately, we were soon joined on the neighbouring bench by a very young family and their friends. Covered in tattoos, mouths like sewers, seemingly held together by the few remaining teeth they possessed, they punctuated every sentence with language that would make a docker blush. Tiny spliffs added suspicious-smelling clouds to the atmosphere. We decided our pasties would taste much better while walking, so we made a swift exit. These are the future? Heaven help us.


Back in Tesco, with the shopping nearly complete, he spotted a beer offer at the last minute. Naturally, that found its way into the trolley. While he debated whether to use the self-service tills or a manned checkout, I wandered over to a tiny electrical section and returned triumphantly carrying a new kettle. Decision made. Manned checkout it was, complete with surprise kettle purchase.


On another day out, he already had the route carefully planned as we headed down to the King Harry Ferry. More importantly, he’d found a pub for lunch. Priorities.


One of only five chain ferries in the UK, the King Harry Ferry crosses the estuary and saves a 27-mile drive between St Mawes and Feock.


Our destination was The Pandora Inn, sitting right on the edge of Restronguet Creek, with parts of the building dating back to the 13th century. Parking is limited, so we arrived early, ordered drinks and claimed a table on the pontoon.


Watching the wildlife happily filled the time. The tide was only just beginning to return, so the pontoon was still resting on the creek bed. A family of swans entertained us by pecking through the mud while an elegant egret flew in, startling a flock of ducks that had clearly been enjoying a lazy Sunday afternoon nap.
Talking of Sundays… we hadn’t actually realised it was one.


His heart had been set on the highly recommended fish and chips, only to discover that Sunday’s menu was devoted to roast dinners instead. Not exactly a hardship.


I chose the pork while His Lordship went all in with the mixed roast.


When the meals arrived, they looked every bit as good as we’d hoped. Thick slices of beautifully cooked pork rested on roasted carrots, potatoes and parsnips beneath a gloriously oversized Yorkshire pudding. A generous bowl overflowing with vegetables and a jug of rich gravy completed the feast.


A Sunday roast has always been my favourite meal, but I think a Pandora Sunday roast has just taken the top spot.


Bellies fit to burst, we climbed back into the car and headed for Porthleven, surely one of Cornwall’s prettiest harbour villages. Although it was still busy for a Sunday, it never felt overcrowded.


I treated us both to a bag of Cornish fudge to take home, which somehow disappeared remarkably quickly as we wandered around the harbour. So much for being too full.


Leaving Porthleven, we drove across to St Michael’s Mount. After feeding a couple of pounds into the parking meter, we joined everyone else photographing the iconic island.


The tide was in, leaving the causeway completely submerged. A group of teenagers seemed highly amused by the fact they were now stranded on the island. I doubt their families shared the same level of amusement as the afternoon wore on.


To round off a jam-packed day, we found ourselves in St Ives. You really can fit a lot into one day in Cornwall if you’re determined enough and have enough disposable income to afford parking. Although, yet again, he found a wall with a 2 hours free parking sign that was only 5,000 steps down to the beach.

On another outing, cooler temperatures made visits to Mevagissey and Charlestown especially enjoyable.


Mevagissey is a thriving harbour town with plenty to see, lots of independent shops and enough places to happily while away a few hours. We enjoyed walking along both sides of the harbour with a very reasonably priced ice-cream, I rewarded a fledgling Seagull for its persistence with the last end of the cone. Five minutes later another Seagull showered me with good luck in the shape of a 2lb sticky missile from heaven that embedded itself into every curl on my head, why oh why not pick the bald fella next to me. A quick sneak into the pub loos to save face and clean my hair and jacket.


It seemed a shame not to visit St Mawes while in the area, so after The Boss had done one of his mega 60 mile bike rides along old Cornish gravel Mineral Tramways we jumped in the car and drove down. Not as bustling or quaint as Mevagissey but complete with its castle, picturesque harbour and a small beach that’s perfect for sitting with an ice cream and watching the world drift by.

Then we stumbled upon one of the nicest places in the world, that’s a bold statement and obviously our opinion. St Just-in-Roseland Church has stood on this site since 500AD and is beautiful. While not religious, we are suckers for a beautiful church for the ambiance, craftsmanship, history and general ability to slow down time and relax momentarily. However, the setting for this church and graveyard is something else. On a steep Cornish hillside the graveyard is packed solid with headstones at what seems impossible angles and positions with a small tidal water harbour at one side. We remarked it felt like we were on a film set as the whole thing was perfection.


Before we knew it, another site stay had come to an end.


We really enjoyed our time at Merrose Farm and could easily have stayed much longer. The Wi-Fi was very temperamental, and 4G appeared and disappeared whenever it felt like it, but somehow I managed. I’m still not entirely sure how, but I did.

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