Luxembourg City … for FREE

Before we traveled to Luxembourg everybody joked that we had to purchase all our provisions before entering as it was so expensive.

Well, our experience is the total opposite, during the (least expensive of the trip) campsite ‘check in’ the receptionist had said, “Here’s your pitch, here’s the toilets, public transport is free, do you want to order bread”. The Boss heard the word ‘Free’ and assumed it was actually going to be free by using the Tourist Tax (small payment of a few Euros) and a ticket provided by the campsite … Oh no, no, no.

It’s totally free, can I say it again, free. You get on the bus, say nothing to the driver, sit down and get off at your destination, all without being arrested.

Then you get to the train station, say nothing to anyone, pass no barriers, walk on to the platform and board a train, sit there nervously while the conductor walks by (his only job appears to be blowing his whistle) and then get off when you reach your station. It is incredible, it is popular, it is the future. Since 2020, nobody has paid for public transport in Luxembourg unless you want 1st class or to cross a country border.

Is this difficult in an unfamiliar country? No, we (they) have moved into the 21st Century, via an App, Mobiliteit.lu it plots your walking route to the nearest bus stop on route, your bus route with stop by stop details, walking route from bus to train, platform and departure details, the only thing it doesn’t do is press the button to open the train door! Well, it’s not difficult if you like a gimmick and can read a map.

It’s fair to say Steve was in his element, the ‘free’ part was enough already but the App sends him into overdrive … with map in hand he starts to plan the days itinerary.

I trust his plans, even though I know he’s planning to walk my little legs off. I suppose a trip to a Capital City requires some walking.

We follow a predefined tourist route from his map, plus extras he fancied. We actually had no preconceptions about this City and it turned out to be quite majestic with its high vantage points with me on tip toes trying to peer over walls that apparently aren’t that high.

Arriving at noon, food became a priority, almost equal to the toilet priority. There were hundreds of bars, bistros and cafes, the Burgers and Fries looked amazing but it seemed more appropriate to sample a local dish. We found ourselves sat outside Bistrot de la Presse looking directly at the front door of the Palais Grand-Ducal, the home of the Luxembourg Royal Family, with armed soldier marching to and from a sentry box.

We ordered Bouneschlupp for starters, which we likened ‘cruelly’ to a Heinz chunky vegetable soup from our childhood, it was actually much much nicer. Kniddelen mat Speck for mains, Luxembourg flour dumplings with bacon in a creamy sauce. Both delicious and extremely ‘filling’. Both dishes would be perfect Winter meals, but still appreciated on a hot 25⁰C day.

“Right, more walking to do”. My feet are killing me. My pretty white trainers that team up with my dresses weren’t made for walking miles in. We venture further around the City as two enormous military planes circle for 30 minutes, quite a display.

More picture opportunities as we walked but I could tell by the way he was checking his phone screen that we were probably following a dotted line on his new favourite App to another bus stop.

Sat on the bus, “Where are we going … is it a cemetery?” … he just smiles, I know him too well. Unfortunately for me, the dotted line from the bus stop to the cemetery is 30 minutes, my feet are starting to hurt.

The Luxembourg American Cemetery and Memorial is the resting place for over 5,000 American soldiers, including General George S. Patton. Many of these soldiers lost their lives in The Battle of the Bulge and other battles in this area as the Allies pushed towards the Rhine in December 1944 – January 1945. Over 8,000 American Military personnel died in just over a one month period of time. If you watch Episode 6 ‘Bastogne’ of ‘The Band of Brothers’ you will get some impression of the cruelest environment and conditions you could imagine.

You feel ‘Unworthy’ to stand at the feet of these young men. 5,000 crosses looks like a colossal army on its own, to imagine this battle had over a million soldiers involved by January 1945 is staggering. All you can do is sit with a few inscribed names in your view and try to imagine their experience, their sacrifice and the impact back home … Very sobering.

Sitting on the train back, a long day, an enjoyable day, a tiring day. We ride on our first ‘free’ double decker train and his App delivers us directly to the local Lidl for supplies.

Another plus, we decided to dine at the on site restaurant, not only was the food amazing but it also gave me the opportunity to check out the toilet block at the far end of the site, lo and behold, proper showers with cubicles, I will sleep easy tonight knowing I can now shower in privacy.