Die fantastische Mosel

A slightly longer blog than normal but it does have lots of photos.

After a very long WiFi less weekend. We are on the move again. Another 4.5hr drive away from the Black Forest to Cochem. An area recommended by a German friend of Steve.

The journey is mainly on two lane autobahns were traffic has no speed limit and is either whizzing by at speed or crawling at a snail’s pace. The weather is dry, so that’s a bonus, it’s starting to warm up again which makes the journey a little more cheery.

We arrive at site Camping zum Feuerberg and first impressions aren’t good at this 8 star rated site. Reception is up a whole load of steps as is the facilities block. A lady in the office is English speaking and she suggests a pitch on the banks of the river. Things may be starting to look up.

All that said, the view of the site from reception is lovely.

In true European style the pitches aren’t that big and close together, we’ve been allocated one of the bigger ones, we have to strategically place the van within the pitch so that our 25m electric cable ‘just’ reaches the precarious looking bollard. The view from the pitch is certainly spectacular.

Legs down, canopy up, kettle on. Chairs facing outwards with a brew in hand just as a river cruiser glides slowly past. This site is starting to go up in our estimation.

Exploring the site a little later on and whilst not very accessible the facilities are very good. The building appears to be stood on stilts, as a precaution against flooding as site is so close to the river. Looking at the markings on the legs of the building it floods regularly.

A cycle path follows the river, after a feast of special burger and special chips from the resident food van on site, we get the tandem out and head off to explore.

Lots of sites flank the riverbank as do little hamlets and towns. It’s a very peaceful and tranquil setting but with lots of life if that makes sense.

We are spending a few days here and looking forward to getting out and about. But first, we get a cracking display of a helicopter spraying the vineyards with what we presume is pesticide. The pilot handles it like a go kart zipping up and down the rows of vines. If the paint on the car is peeling tomorrow we will ask the pilot about the contents of his spray can.

The tandem gets a ride out along the riverbank towards Cochem, on the whole 32 mile round trip we use about 100m of road, the rest is pathways with perfect tarmac and spectacular views of vineyards creeping their way up the sides of the extremely tall hills (or are they mountains)?

Cochem is a beautiful town in a stunning setting. As we approach every minute is another picture opportunity.

We lock the Tandem to the riverside rails with a hundred other bikes. Our 15 minute locking routine is massively ‘over the top’, but think of it this way, in the UK we wouldn’t let the Tandem out of our sight.

Up a short side street and we are in the cobblestone town square with very typical buildings we know and love from this region.

The Boss spies a Cake shop and has been wanting me to share the delights of the local Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte. We bought one and a Cranberry sponge cake in a similar style… I much preferred my Cranberry cake.

After we had practiced our German ordering the bill and paying, we always try our best, Steve pointed to a wooden pergola type structure high on the hillside above the town in the opposite side of the river. I knew what was coming next, “If we ride up to that using full power on the Tandem, it won’t be too bad and the view will be incredible” … “Hhmmmm” … it was bloody hard work, tarmac turned into a forest track and fallen trees required us to drag the Tandem sideways on the floor to get through and of course loads of huffing and fuffing from me.

The view was amazing but the Castle, imposing at ground level, is now lost against the dark tree foliage of the forest, so look closely.  Time to head back down, we both have our own brake controls on the Tandem so a coordinated on/off method is required on the steep descents to avoid overheating the brake pads or the wheel rims … or he just tells me that to stop me pulling the levers tight all the way down, it’s terrifying.

Back by the Moselle and a flat 14 miles return via a riverboat crossing to Beilstein.

The following day he decided a 92 mile solo bike ride to Koblenz would be a good idea … Lunatic… 5 and half hours in 30⁰C heat. I decided a 5 and a half hour stint of dragging my chair in and out of the shade was time better spent with my book and a bottle of factor 30.

Another tandem ride takes us towards Zell via yet another observation tower perched on top of a big hill. It really does make me use all my superpowers to get to the top, I’m really not good with heights, especially when you can see the trees below through the floor.

Back in the saddle and we spy a pizzeria that also specialises in ice cream. We grab a table in the shade and order.

Our final two days and the temperature rocketed to 33°. It was almost impossible to hide in the shade. We did something completely new for us, wild swimming in the Moselle, you needed shoes for the river bed but so refreshing and exhilarating.

Despite all our earlier first impressions of this site when we arrived, this site went up very quickly in our estimation. In fact, it’s ranking highest of the trip so far. The site does have a very tastefully decorated bar that was only open on a Friday and Saturday evening and whilst we didn’t use it, it looked very inviting.

The riverside pitch pushed the site up our rankings, had we been further back on site it may not have scored so highly. You can book in advance and request pitches, so were we to visit again, which I’m sure we will, that is what we will do.